#Kubota sidekick mods full#

I think if the pins were almost twice the thickness I'd be happy with the design, but not as is. So it's not like it takes 100% shear strength, there is a gap that allows the pins to bend a little. Without seeing the new parts I can't be sure, but the elongated holes in the carrier may start out elongated and got worse? IDK, I'm going to jack up one wheel, hold it in lock and feel how much play the wheel has in locked mode.Īnyway the worst part besides the pins being too small is the fact that the spool or whatever you want to call it that the locking pins are mounted in never comes flat against the carrier and the spider gear. The holes in the carrier were elongated to over twice the width of the pins, then there was some wear where the pins go into the spider gear but not much. I had pictured the pins at about 1/2' or so, these are NOT in my opinion up to the task and neither is the carrier they go through. These go (I think all the time?) through the diff carrier and when engaged go into the spider gear. To lock the rear there are 4 pins about 5/16' thick and an inch or so long. I sure am glad this was under warranty! I got to see the old parts (I should have taken pics). The third is probably the mower height adjustment knob. This is the second most misunderstood control on a tractor, the first is the 3pt speed control. Not trying to bragg here, just trying to encourage people to use it and not be afraid to use it, it’s really useful sometimes. I’ve been using diff locks on tractors for 45 years, never had a problem. It’s a really tough mechanism in the differential, and can take a lot of differential torque when used properly, that’s what it’s for. It’s really helpful when on a slope and both high side tires spin. You get quit good at it after a while, I engage and disengage without thinking about it. Pins get broken when people put high differential torque on tires when partially engaged. When lever is all the way up it’s disengaged, it cannot still be engaged with lever all the way up.

To disengage, let up on lever move slowly turn slightly one way or other to relieve pressure on pins, lever will pop up. Don’t put heavy pressure on the lever it doesn’t do any good.

#Kubota sidekick mods full#

Make certain the lever goes full down, for full engagement before doing your work. The lever will go down with light pressure when pins become aligned, then turn straight. The best way to do this is turn slightly while slowly moving with a light pressure on the lever.

The tires definitely have to move at different speeds to align and engage. I really want the ability to go riding with the other folks around here, so speed is a factor.It’s rare that when you step down on the lock that the pins are aligned and it engages. Thoughts on the machine from you folks overall? I have been pricing an RTV XG850SL-AS with aluminum wheels, full cab, hard doors, heater, winch, all the goodies. She is the one who suggested my old girl is tired, maybe I should get a new one! After blacking out and recovering. It shouldn't be a hard sell as I repaired a newer RTV1100X in my shop, and took the wife for a test ride (18 miles just in case). Topping out at 23 mph with the old girl just won't let me go on rides with the rest of the machines around here. I am thinking about getting a brand new machine before I retire, and I would like to trail ride as much as i would work/plow. I put a Curtis plow on and it has been the greatest machine for many years. So I have had a 2005 RTV900 that i rebuilt many years ago from junk basically.